I want to build a pergola to separate a small patio in my driveway in Sydney. I am trying to make a privacy screen as much as much shade as possible. The matter is I have only a tiny strip of ground to work with, and also the pergola has to be more similar to a fence compared to a table with four legs, if this makes sense. Can you offer any ideas about how to achieve this? What should I worry about, and how do I attach the support articles in order that the pergola is protected? — Joel Z., Jhna, Sydney NSW
Let’s first talk about the structural challenges all pergolas face, then we will discuss about trendy design ideas. Yours is of special concern, since it’s definitely going to be a tall fence, as you know. Your primary concern ought to be horizontal wind load. The entire weight of all the materials used to construct a normal pergola can be in the hundreds of lbs. You don’t want it falling on someone at a subsequent date.
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p; While you may not intend to possess vines on the pergola, some upcoming homeowner may choose to grow flowers and fruit on the structure. Not only does that vegetation add hundreds of pounds, but also the compact growth also increases the wind load. Your safety and that of all who sit under the pergola are subject to just how well you obey the laws of physics.
All timber used needs to be powerful enough to withstand snapping or cracking under the force of the wind or snow loads. You reside where moist, heavy snow may coat the pergola, so plan accordingly. Each of the fasteners have to be premium hot-dipped, stainless or galvanized steel.
If you decide to use modern treated lumber, the fasteners and steel framing connectors must be qualified for the newer treated lumber that has a higher copper content. Failure to do that will cause complex and rapid corrosion of the alloy from galvanic reaction when the pergola gets moist.You have got to be quite concerned about strong winds that could blow your pergola over. A conventional pergola which may have as few as four articles can blow over, but it is harder to do if the four posts will be bolted securely to concrete piers.
You can’t bolt your articles into piers, since it might tip over with little effort. You need to bury your articles much as utility poles are installed. My guess is your pergola will be around 10 feet high once it’s all done, so I would want to find the poles buried at least 4 feet into the ground.
I’d coat the wood that’s likely to be in the ground with a readily accessible copper naphthenate alternative and surround the poles with angular crushed gravel that’s the size of large grapes. This kind of gravel interlocks and functions much like concrete, but it provides for good drainage when the water leaves the ground at the spring.
Let’s talk about the Appearances of This pergola. I’m a big fan of multi-colored and multi-textured looks. You can attain this by using different species of wood or different colored exterior semi-transparent stains. Mixing rough-sawn Western red cedar with redwood can produce a stunning look.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUvZnzVjIcu/embed/captioned/?cr=1&v=7&wp=566#%7B%22ci%22%3A0%2C%22os%22%3A3950.4600000000005%7DIt’s all about scale in the close of the afternoon, so you need to use big articles. You might get by with 4-by-6 articles, but, trust me, 6-by-6 posts would be better. Your top beams that will be on both sides of the posts will need to be a 2-by-10s so that they do not appear undersized. I’m a big fan of cutting quarter circles out of the ends of the crisscrossed lumber that creates the shade aspect of the pergola.
Consider cantilevering the surface of the pergola just a bit. The flat rafters do not need to be equal to all sides of the primary beams or the posts. I would not exceed a 3:1 ratio, because it will include a rotational force that could get the pergola to tilt out of the offset weight of the overhang. It’s a stunning appearance and will give you more shade on the little patio depending on the pergola’s compass orientation.
Use thickness to your benefit in the center sections of this pergola between the posts. I would install flat 2-by-4s spaced about 2 feet on center with the initial one no more than 16 inches above the last mulched grade. On either side of these 2-by-4s, attach pieces of diagonal or square lattice bits in a shadow-box design.
Be sure the lattice is also a different colour of finish or wood, if at all possible. This will add to the stunning masterpiece you’re going to create. Many people forget to do that and lose out on a huge opportunity to induce the wow element.
Insert a final touch at the base of the posts by trimming them out in different layers of wood that resembles baseboard that you might have in your dwelling. Bevel the top border at a 45-degree angle to shed water. Once again, think about using a different wood species here to highlight this accent trim.
Good luck, and Allow Me to know how your Friends and Wife feel about it